Cover; Publishing Information; Introduction; Introduction to West Africa; The geographical picture; Where to go; When to go; Basics; Getting there; Red tape and visas; Info and media; Maps and books; Health; Costs, money, banks; Getting around; Accommodation; Eating and drinking; Communications; Public holidays and festivals; Crime and safety; Cultural hints; Living and working in West Africa; Travellers with disabilities; Gender issues and sexual attitudes; Wildlife and national parks; People and languages; Travellers' French; Practicalities; Explore West Africa; Mauritania; Senegal